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The official newsletter of Horses for Clean Water, http://www.horsesforcleanwater.com
Published on the 10th of each month by Alayne Blickle, Director of Horses for Clean Water
Message from Alayne: Comes a Horseman
Among those who follow natural horsemanship, Ray Hunt is a legend and nearly a god. His methods for a kinder, softer way of starting and working with horses have caught on and spread like wildfire, so much so that most horse households know his name.
About 18 years ago, I was getting back into horses after a 10-year hiatus and Matt was taking the plunge into the deep end of the proverbial horse pool. During this time, we ended up at a Ray Hunt clinic. It turned out to be an event that changed the course of our lives, and I think I can safely say it changed our horses’ lives as well. I recall being awed by the quiet way he rode and the finesse he had. It was clear from the way he looked and talked he was a true cowboy, but he rode as lightly as a feather. And he was kind and gentle with young colts.
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Ray talks the horsemanship class through many maneuvers. |
When Ray said that his horse was his feet, he not only meant it, he lived it. His eyes held my gaze, not looking down or anywhere else, as his horse carefully took one step forward, then one step back, then two steps sideways, all without any discernable movement from Ray’s body! It was as if what Ray thought, the horse mirrored. I sat mesmerized as I watched fractious colts being saddled and ridden in a short time. No broncing, no cowboying. I knew this new way of understanding horses was for me and I wanted to know it, breathe it into my life, make it part of my vision.
While this master horse communicator’s methods were revolutionary to me at the time, the notion of understanding things from the horse’s perspective has by now brought about a new standard for horsemanship among horse people everywhere.
Ray is now in his 80s, on oxygen and in failing health. This past weekend I had an opportunity to attend one of his most recent clinics, held in Eastern Washington. I could not pass up the chance to once again see the horseman who shaped my core principles of horsemanship, the ones that have guided me for 18 years. So on a brilliantly sunny but cold Saturday I showed up to watch him teach, to immerse myself in the lessons being offered as well as in the memories of the first time I naively walked into Ray’s clinic.
Some reminders I heard include:
Don’t find fault with your horse. Try to find the good things he does and then the bad will get less and less.
Paint your picture your way. Ray’s goal is to help and encourage you in doing that. It takes time to get your painting complete. It won’t happen overnight.
Notice the smallest change, the slightest try.
You might not be where you want to be yet, but you will be.
When things aren’t working quite right, take your horse’s feet somewhere else. Take it slow, don’t force it. It won’t happen overnight.
We want our horses to respond to us in respect, not fear.
Focus on the horse when you’re working with him, otherwise you’re cheating him. You are the teacher, he is the student.
What you put into this [relationship], you’re going to get out of it.
You can teach more to a horse at a walk than at any other gait. See how fast you can walk, then how slow. See how quickly you can go from the trot to the walk.
When the end of the clinic came, it seemed like Ray was speaking to all the horsemen and women he’s helped over more than 40 years. “I’ve come to help,” he said in his slow, cowboy drawl, looking around the indoor arena and smiling in the way he’s famous for, toothpick locked in the corner of his mouth. “I hope I haven’t let anyone down. You’re all doing very well. Very well. I couldn’t be more proud of you.” Then with a long pause and another smile he added, “God and nature willing, I’ll be back.”
Alayne
HCW’s Spring Check List
Remove toxic weeds
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Maintain/hang nestboxes
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Maintain equipment
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Spread manure
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Plant native trees/shrubs
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Longer daylight and the sight of fresh, green pastures are exciting! Use this time to get a jump start on taking care of your property. Here are a few things to do this month to prepare for a productive, chore efficient summer!
Hang swallow boxes. Our favorite bird here at Horses for Clean Water, the Violet-green Swallow, has returned to Western Washington and will be returning to other parts of North America this month as well. These cheerful little guys spend winters in Central America and return each spring to their previous year’s nest. They are voracious insect eaters, consuming many thousands per day, per bird. Now is the time to get your nest boxes hung so the Violet-greens will want to spend their spring and summer hunting insects on YOUR farm! Check out the The Swallows Are Coming! in the March 2004 issue of TGH for more information.
Get compost out. As soon as your soils are no longer saturated and are safe to drive equipment on, begin spreading your winter supply of compost. Spread in a thin layer, about 1/4 " to 1/2" thick, on pastures, lawns or gardens.
Soil test. Check with your conservation district for assistance on this painless, easy way to get more info on what amendments your pasture soils need to get healthy and productive.
Walk pasture fence lines to check for winter storm damage and mend fencing as needed.
Pull weeds like Tansy Ragwort that are just coming up now and are in the rosette stage. Use gloves and bag Tansy to be sent to the landfill.
Fence off creeks, ditches, wetlands and ponds at least 25 to 50 feet from the high water mark.
Service tractor, mower and compost spreader to get ready for the upcoming busy season.
Inspect supply of temporary fencing. Buy needed materials for implementation for grazing areas or for repair.
Plant native trees and shrubs for filters, hedgerows, summer shade and stormwater management (see tips and ideas below).
Begin rotational grazing of horse pastures, in half hour increments (to avoid digestive upsets). Work up to several hours over a period of weeks.
Tips for Using Native Plants
Indian plum
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Kinnikinnik
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Flowering red currant
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Buffer strip plantings
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Mock orange
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Nootka rose
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Spring is the time to plant your native trees and shrubs. Get those bare root seedlings into the ground as quickly as possible while they are still dormant and to take advantage of the spring rains.
Here is a list of ways native plants can enhance your farm:
Plant hedgerows of native plants as an alternative to fencing. Hedgerows act as wind barriers as well as providing an attractive visual boundary. Species to consider for hedgerows include: beaked hazelnut, nootka rose, red flowering currant as well as coniferous and deciduous trees such as Douglas fir, western red cedar, black hawthorn and pacific crabapple.
Plant native plants as mud managers alongside confinement areas to reduce flows, absorb water and filter sediments and pollutants. Species to consider for wet areas include: red osier dogwood, pacific willow, black twinberry, salmonberry and pacific ninebark.
Plant native buffers along streams and wetlands to protect riparian habitat by improving water quality and reducing erosion. Species to consider for riparian areas include: western red cedar, Oregon ash, black twinberry, pacific ninebark, salmonberry.
Plant native plants as decorative landscape features near your house and along the driveway. Many native shrubs and groundcovers exhibit beautiful arrays of colors in flowers and leaves. Choose a variety of evergreen and deciduous plants for year round coverage. Species to consider for ornamental value include: red flowering currant, mock orange, salal, sword fern, kinnikinnick.
Plant native plants instead of lawns to save time and money by reducing or even eliminating the need for fertilizers, pesticides, water and lawn maintenance equipment. Species to consider for drier areas include: Douglas fir, shore pine, nootka rose, big leaf maple, beaked hazelnut, thimbleberry, snowberry, Oregon grape.
Plant native plants for wildlife enhancement. The types of plants you choose for food and cover will help determine the wildlife species attracted to your backyard. Planting a variety of native species will ensure that plants will flower and fruit at different times throughout the year.
In Search of The Perfect Footing
by April LaLande
After a very long, cold winter in many parts of the country, certainly here in the Northwest, The Green Horse is experiencing an increase in questions about arenas. We are guessing that with fuel prices still skyrocketing, and a less than ideal economy, many of you are aspiring to keep yourselves and your horses in shape this year while remaining close to home!
A common arena adage is: an arena is only as good as the base it’s built on. But for many people, one of the key components to actually being able to enjoy their arena all year ‘round, is the riding surface they choose for the top. This last step is sometimes the most agonizing one in the arena building process. While there can sometimes be many choices for riding surfaces, depending upon where you live, all choices have both advantages and disadvantages. So which choice is the best?
Matt Livengood, reiner/judge
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Paige Ruhl, dressage rider/trainer
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Marla Hamilton, hunter/jumper rider
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Hogfuel
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Wood chips
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Hog fuel
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Coarse sand
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We thought it would be fun to have a “weigh in,” and query some horse people from different walks (or rides) of life to find out what their favorite types of footing surfaces are. Matt Livengood from Maple Valley, WA works for Boeing, Horses for Clean Water and is on the board of the King Conservation District. In addition to all of this, Matt is a serious reining competitor, National Reining Horse Association Judge, and long-time reining show manager. Paige Ruhl’s life work has been spent training horses and people; hence she has had the opportunity to ride on just about every type of surface available in the Pacific Northwest and beyond. Paige is currently a United States Dressage Federation (USDF) medalist and dressage competitor, and dressage trainer based in Enumclaw, WA. Marla Hamilton Lucas from the Snohomish, WA area works for the King Conservation District and has been a 15 year hunter/jumper competitor on the NW “A” circuit. Footing can be especially critical in Marla’s sport with the added dimension of being airborne, and she knows the surface attributes that make riding both safe and enjoyable! Here are their responses:
What is the most important component of footing for your type of riding?
Matt: As a reiner, I need the footing to have a level, firm, packed base (under the riding surface) to enable the sliding stops that reiners are known for; in reining everything is done at a lope (either fast or slow). So, if the base has irregularities (depressions or bumps) or soft spots in it, then it can cause the horse to stumble and/or catch a foot which could injure the horse, in addition to negatively impacting the overall performance of the horse.
Paige: The “cushion” factor of the footing. It needs to be soft enough to provide spring, but be stable enough for the horse to push against.
Marla: Firm uniform base with no holes, consistent depth of footing, soft enough to reduce concussion but not so soft that the horse can’t get enough push off the ground to jump.
How deep do you like the footing to be?
Matt: The footing for the riding surface that is best for reining is about two to three inches of sand or a sand/clay mix for indoor arenas (mostly sand). This depth is sufficient to provide enough footing to allow the horse to ride at speed without slipping, but not so deep that it inhibits a horse’s ability to slide in the stops.
Paige: It totally depends on what the footing is. Footing that is too deep will wear and tear on a horse’s tendons and ligaments, and footing too hard will compromise joints and bones. Two to three inches is ideal if it is a sand/rubber mix.
Marla: Enough to protect the base from damage and provide cushion to the horse, but not too much so as to risk tendon injury. Three to four inches seems to be adequate to do this. Regular maintenance by watering and dragging is key for amended sand arenas to maintain desirable footing qualities.
Does the slope of the arena make a difference in how you ride?
Matt: When you say slope I assume you mean the slight angle (whether crowned or all in one direction) that allows for water to drain on outdoor arenas. A one to two percent slope should be sufficient to allow proper drainage off an arena. A one to two percent slope is barely discernible when you are riding, so it really doesn’t affect the way I ride.
Paige: Absolutely. It affects the balance of the horses; they have to work harder to push going up the slope, and also work harder going down, compared to a level surface. A crowned arena is preferable, as the slope is usually of a lesser degree than a side to side slope.
Marla: As all outdoor arenas are sloped in some manner for drainage, I’ve never noticed a difference in riding depending on whatever slope the arena has. Most grass rings I’ve ridden in have a lot more slope, and variation in slope, than you would ever have in a sand ring.
What type of surface do you like to ride on for an outdoor arena?
Matt: Again, for me as a reiner, a sand footing is the best, and really the only option for an outdoor arena. The type of sand is also important. I think coarse, washed sand is best as it contains the least amount of fine particles which can be very dusty when it is dry. Riding in a very dusty arena can be a health problem for both horse and rider. Also, the dust from an outdoor arena can be a source of problems with neighbors; so using coarser sand can help minimize dust, and along with regular watering this can help avoid problems.
Paige: A sand and rubber mix seems to be ideal for stability and cushion. Hogfuel is lovely for the spring it provides, but is not generally stable enough to work well in all conditions. It can also become slippery. High quality silica [golf course] sand works well, mixed with either a wood or a rubber product.
Marla: A properly designed and maintained grass ring with the right shoe studs [special studs, or caulks that are screwed into the horses shoes for events] is the best, but not practical. The best outdoor surface seems to be a mix of utility sand (slightly larger than beach sand) and small wood chips or another amendment that holds water, holds the sand together a little and provides some cushion. Hogfuel or other majority wood type footing is too slippery for jumping, especially when wet.
Some considerations to keep in mind when deciding on your arena surface:
- How does the material act when wet; does it shed moisture or retain it?
- Will it drain quickly after a rainstorm with the proper slope and drainage on the arena base?
- How quickly does the material freeze and thaw? High moisture retention can mean a slow thaw.
- How will my climate affect the surface? Will it blow away in the wind, or float away in the rain?
- Will I have a use for the surface material (or disposal options) when it needs to be replaced?
- Do I have the proper equipment, i.e., drags or harrows, to maintain the type of surface I have?
- Will my surface stay fairly dust free in the summer?
- Do I have proper drainage around the arena so water doesn’t accumulate on the surface and/or degrade the base?
Some typical arena sizes:
- Round Pen: 50 to 60 foot diameter
- Cows and Reining: 100 x 200 feet minimum
- Jumping: 80 x 120 feet minimum
- Small Dressage: 66 x 132 feet (20 x 40 meters)
- Large Dressage: 66 x 198 feet (20 x 60 meters)
- Driving: 132 x 264 Feet (40 x 80 meters)
- Multi-Purpose Professional: 150 x 300 feet
Grasses, Grazing and Horse Health: Tips for Safer Grass
From the April 21, 2007 Lecture by Katy Watts of Safergrass.org
If you missed the Safergrass lecture sponsored by the King and Snohomish Conservation Districts on April 20 and 21, here is a summary of key concepts.
The horse industry is struggling to develop a better understanding of the issues surrounding sugars, non-structural carbohydrates and grasses for horses. Over the years, pasture grasses and related grazing principles have been developed for horses through the cattle and sheep industries. This means we have grass species with extremely high levels of sugars and carbohydrates. This is good for fattening up animals bound for milk or meat production and early age slaughter, but NOT GOOD for horses, who are athletic andÊintended to live 25 plus years.
In horses, “fat” is not healthy, and the related high sugar and non-structural carbohydrate issues in hay and grass may explain why we are now seeing so many overweight individuals with metabolic disorders and insulin resistance problems. The way we've been grazing horses and the types of pastures we've developed may be contributing to very serious horse health issues.
If your horse is overweight or already has a metabolic disorder you may be looking for some ways to reduce sugars and carbohydrates. Or, you may want to watch your horse’s waistline and do your best to keep him/her in good health. Here are some simple Do’s and Don’ts that can help to reduce the sugar and carb load in your horse’s diet.
Remember, seek help from a veterinarian and/or other professionals experienced in this area, especially if you have an at-risk individual. Also, keep in mind that for any changes you institute you need to give the situation time to see if it is effective. And, any changes in diet need to be done gradually in order to give the horse’s gut time to adjust.
Do’s:
- Night grazing may be very useful. The best time to graze while gaining maximum benefit of forage without adding extra fat on your horse is 3:00 a.m. until 10:00 a.m. At this time pasture plants have used up most of the accumulated sugar that built up during the day. Since there’s not many of us that want to set our alarm clocks to 2:45 a.m., what works for some horse owners is to turn horses out as late as possible in the evening (say, 10:00 p.m.), bringing them in the next morning before heading off to work.
- An alternative to night grazing is turning horses out on pasture in the early morning (say 6:00 a.m.) and bringing them in by about 10:00 a.m. when plant production of sugar becomes high once again.
- Pastures are liable to be healthiest for horses (i.e. lowest in sugars) during the active growing season when plants are green and not stressed (i.e. brown). Therefore, graze horses during the active growing seasons (spring and early summer) and limit grazing of dried out and brown pastures as they can be very high in sugars.
- Shady pastures and cloudy days will cause lower carbohydrate and sugar levels in grasses. Rotating horses to shady pastures may be an option for high-risk individuals.
- Easy-keepers on pasture may need a grazing muzzle, a device that fastens on a horse’s head and only allows the horse to eat through a very small hole in the muzzle.
- When feeding hay, always weigh it and don't cheat: a 1 pound difference in a feeding is a big difference.
- Exercising a horse as little as 30 minutes per day, three times per week can make a big change and improve their metabolism.
- Treat each horse as an individual. Just like with people, the dietary needs for one horse may not be the same for another horse.
Don’ts:
- Grain, complete feeds and concentrates add huge amounts of sugars and non-structural carbohydrates to a horse’s diet. Most horses only need these when lacking in energy or weight. Talk with your veterinarian about specific recommendations for your horse.
- Confining horses in a stall along with reducing physical demands sets the stage for serious metabolic problems.
- Don’t overgraze pastures. The greatest amount of sugar in a grass plant is in the bottom 3 inches. Allowing horses to overgraze pastures adds high amounts of sugars to their diets.
- Avoid grazing during cool weather (under 40 degrees) and especially if it has frosted. Pasture plants store carbohydrates at very high levels during these times, making it a particularly dangerous time to graze (i.e., extremely high in sugars and carbs). This is a key issue and may wreak the most havoc with an at-risk horse’s metabolic condition.
- Don’t graze pastures that are under stress or drought conditions (brown and dried out grass) as these are likely to be high in sugars.
- During long periods of sunny weather eliminate or substantially reduce grazing time for at-risk individuals. Consider grazing late at night instead (see above).
In summary, especially if you have an at-risk individual, you may need to research this area further and perhaps seek professional help. This is a complex and evolving area; each horse is an individual and each situation may require a slightly different way of handling things.
Resources:
Katy Watts, Rocky Mountain Research and Consulting, Inc.,www.safergrass.org
Here are some Northwest feed companies that have low NSC (non-structural carbohydrates) feeds and list the NSC content so you know exactly what your horse is getting in grain or pelleted rations:
A good academic paper explaining the make up of carbohydrates: link
International Veterinary Information Service
Equi-analytical Laboratories for testing forage
Educational Events
Discover great ways to increase your chore efficiency, reduce mud, compost manure and make your horse life more pleasant this winter. Check out the web site, www.HorsesforCleanWater.com, for new events added regularly.
Mason County, WA |
Understanding Forage, Hay and Equine Nutrition Workshop |
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Saturday, April 19th, 2008
9:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m.
FREE!
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Learn how pasture management and horse health weave into managing horse pastures. Three speakers include Alayne Blickle from HCW who will talk about pasture management and horse health; an equine nutrition expert who will discuss nutrition, feeding and understanding forage; as well as the farm owner who does an exemplary job of managing pastures. The grand finale of the event will be a pasture tour and discussion with the landowner to see pasture management practices in place.
Registration and directions, Karin Strelioff at 360-427-9436x22 or e-mail.
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Preston, WA |
Natural Ways to Control Mud, Dust, Bugs and Weeds |
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Wednesday April 23rd, 2008
6:30 p.m. to 9:00 p.m.
Preston Community Center
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Reduce chemical use on your property while making it healthier for your horses, you and wildlife! Learn about “natural” insect control, mud reduction, dust barriers, visual screens between neighbors, summer cooling of buildings, summer shade for horses and low-cost/low care naturescaping. We will also cover environmentally sensitive ways to manage odors, useful water conservation tips and ideas for managing creeks or wetlands on horse properties. Join Horses for Clean Water to learn about:
- Using trees and shrubs for mud and erosion control around paddocks, dust barriers around arenas, and privacy screens between neighboring uses
- Encouraging swallows and other insect eating animals that provide chemical-free insect control
- Mowing pastures as a useful way to manage weeds and reduce (or eliminate) herbicide use
- Controlling paddock odors with zeolite, a naturally occurring mineral
- Conserving water with automatic waterers, rain barrels and cisterns, and pervious surfaces in driveways
- Using vegetative swales & rain gardens to filter dirty water or control extra runoff
Reduce chemical use, save money, keep your neighbors happy and make your place nicer for you and your horses! To register and receive directions contact the King Conservation District at 425-277-5581x122 or e-mail.
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Maple Valley, WA |
Farm Tour: Horses For Clean Water |
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Saturday, May 3, 2008
10:00 a.m. to 12:00 noon
Blickle-Livengood Farm, Maple Valley, WA
FREE!
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Visit the working horse farm belonging to the director of Horses for Clean Water, Alayne Blickle, and her husband Matt Livengood. In addition to running an environmentally friendly horse farm, Alayne and Matt ride and show reining horses. Five acres is set up for 5+ horses with 2 riding arenas, grassy pastures, mudless paddocks, composting areas, garden, barn and shelters. An additional 5 acres is wooded with trails, creek and wetlands. The property is in the Public Benefit Rating System property taxes are substantially lowered in exchange for keeping the property as open spaces. Learn how this farm coexists with a herd of 15 majestic elk and the concessions made to enjoy the “Northwest Trek” feeling. BONUS: Come early to visit, check out barn sale items and learn about adjacent riding trails on state land.
To register and receive directions contact the King Conservation District at 425-277-5581x122 or e-mail.
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Placerville, CA |
Livestock and Land Workshop: Managing Horses on Small Acreage |
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Saturday, May 17, 2008
8:30 a.m. to 1:00 p.m.
100 Forni Rd.
Placerville, CA
$20 per household
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Join Alayne Blickle in El Dorado County, CA for this workshop on horse property management. Learn how to plan your site, including facilities design and layout. Find out about ways to reduce erosion, mud and dust. Hear how to compost manure and keep pastures green.
For information or registration call 530-295-5630 or e-mail. Sponsored by: El Dorado County and Georgetown Divide Resource Conservation Districts, Department of Transportation Stormwater Management, and Ecology Action of Santa Cruz.
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Kirkland, WA |
Farm Tour: Urban Horse Property with a European Flair |
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Saturday, June 14th
10:00 a.m. to 12:00 noon
FREE!
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This architect horse owner designed and retrofitted her small, urban house to become a comfortable horse property. Hear how she worked with neighbors and the community to blend in and ease concerns. See composting and manure management, paddocks, small grazing areas (formerly the back yard) and see trail access to Bridle Trails State Park. BONUS: Learn about the nearby equestrian park, Bridle Trails State Park, and the club that supports it, Lake Washington Saddle Club.
To register and receive directions contact the King Conservation District at 425-277-5581x122 or e-mail.
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Olympia, WA |
Farm Tour: Managing small acreage pastures to increase production and reduce weeds |
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Wednesday, July 16th, 2008
6:30 p.m. to 9:00 p.m.
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Join HCW at this small Olympia suburban farm and learn how to make your place healthier for your animals, more productive this growing season, less bothered by nuisance insects, AND more chore-efficient! This special farm tour will be held at an award-winning urban small farm with excellent pasture management techniques. See how rotational grazing can be used to actually improve your pastures and eliminate weeds.
Registration and directions, Sara Carter at 360-754-3588x136 or e-mail or Karin Strelioff at 360-427-9436x22 or e-mail.
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Ravensdale, WA |
Farm Tour: Managing Droughty Pastures, Outdoor Washracks and Innovations |
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Wednesday, July 30th, 2008
6:30 p.m. to 9:00 p.m.
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This exciting horse property is 3 acres of dynamic horse happenings! This property owner has the “internet bug” and has researched and come up with many innovative designs for chore efficiency and farm productivity. See self-coiling sprinkling systems, an on-demand portable water heater for the 3 season outdoor wash rack, a low-cost drivable dump cart for ease of stall cleaning, great ways to organize a small-space tack room—and many more cool ideas for horse’n around! Join HCW on a summer evening to discuss horses, horse pasture management, chore efficiency—and much more!
To register and receive directions contact the King Conservation District at 425-277-5581x122 or e-mail.
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Enumclaw, WA |
Understanding Forage, Hay and Equine Nutrition |
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August weekday evening TBD
FREE!
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Learn how pasture management and horse health come together in managing horse properties. See a demo of a hay probe you can borrow for free from the King Conservation District, hear from knowledgeable speakers on hay forage analysis, and listen to a veterinarian about pasture management and horse health. Get hands-on help on how to weave all this together.
Details contact Alayne via e-mail or by phone at 425-432-6116.
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Issaquah, WA |
Farm Tour: Living Without Horse Pasture |
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Saturday, September 6th, 2008
10:00 a.m. to 12:00 noon
FREE!
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This five acre two horse property faced lots of design challenges in it’s creation, including steep slopes, heavily wooded areas, wet areas and no suitable areas for conversion to pasture. In spite of challenges, the owners have woven together mudless paddocks, a lunging area, chore-efficient composting bins, and a charming, hand-built barn, along with copious flower gardens and vegetable beds all in a beautiful, manageable set up. Hear about creative pasturing arrangements done with a neighbor as well as local trails on Tiger Mountain.
To register and receive directions contact the King Conservation District at 425-277-5581x122 or e-mail.
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Olympia, WA |
Fencing Workshop |
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Sunday, September 7th, 2008
9:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m.
FREE!
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Fencing is a key tool for good pasture management. Come learn the whys and hows of horse fencing. Learn about the differences between power and electric fencing, as well as what makes a fence safe for horses. Work with fencing experts to build a short segment of fence and learn how to do build a fence on your property.
Registration and directions, Karin Strelioff at 360-427-9436x22 or e-mail.
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Olympia, WA |
Fall in Place: Preparing Your Horse Farm for Winter |
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Sunday, October 5th, 2008
9:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m.
FREE!
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Join Horses for Clean Water for a workshop on how to prepare your farm so it will be easier to care for in the coming winter with less runoff, mud and manure. Learn techniques you can put in place to improve horse health, make chores and horse life easier and improve the health of the environment.
Registration and directions, Karin Strelioff at 360-427-9436x22 or e-mail.
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Hobart, WA |
Farm Tour: Managing Horse Property in Winter |
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Saturday, November 8th, 2008
10:00 a.m. to 12:00 noon
FREE!
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Visit Hobart, WA, often referred to as the horse capitol of South King County, to see mud-free and chore-efficient management techniques in place on this new farm. This property owner recently moved into their new horsey property, designed by the owners from the ground up. Hear why choices were made including gravel vs. sand paddocks. See a covered round pen. Learn about Paso Finos. Find out about Incinclot toilets—an environmentally-friendly option for barns without a septic system. BONUS: Pick up maps for trail riding on King County’s Taylor Mountain Park.
To register and receive directions contact the King Conservation District at 425-277-5581x122 or e-mail.
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