Horses for Clean Water's founder, Alayne Blickle is interviewed in the May 2012 Issue of Horse & Rider

Pick up a copy of magazine Horses & Rider this month. Horses For Clean Water’s founder, Alayne Blickle, is featured in the article:  Nip It In The Mud. The article includes six solutions to start working on now—so muddy horse pens don’t get the best of you again next season. You can find the piece on page 81 of the hard-copy magazine.

It’s that time of year when the grass gets greener and grows fast!  But is it time to let your horses begin grazing on the pastures you’ve carefully fenced off all winter? Putting horses out too soon can reduce the productivity of your pastures this coming summer; letting your horses graze too much too quickly can be dangerous to horse health. Here are some considerations to keep in mind before you open up the gates to the pasture.

Don’t let your horses have too much grass too quickly! Once horses begin grazing again, limit turn-out time. Too much grass can cause very serious digestive issues in the spring when a horse’s gut is not used to the change in diet.  Start with about an hour at a time, and work up to several hours over a period of several weeks. For any questions on how much grazing time is safe for your horse, consult your veterinarian for recommendations.

For healthy grass plants, keep horses off of pastures until soils are no longer soggy.  One of the most important aspects of pasture management is the time you keep horses offthe pasture. Saturated soils and dormant plants cannot survive continuous grazing and trampling. When soils are still wet they are easily compacted, suffocating the roots of grass plants. A simple test for sogginess is to walk out in your fields and see if you leave a footprint—if you do, you know it’s too wet and that the weight of a horse will be sure to compact the soil.

Rotational grazing at Alayne's Sweet Pepper Ranch in Nampa, ID.

Do a Soil Test. Fertilizer is almost always overused and may not be needed at all. Just because it’s spring doesn’t mean it’s time to fertilize. If you apply fertilizer and your pasture grass doesn’t need it, you’ve just wasted your time and money plus the excess fertilizer will most likely be washed into nearby streams and lakes. Besides being damaging to the environment, the cost of purchasing fertilizer year after year can really add up and the time you spend spreading it could be better spent on other activities around your horse farm. The best way to find out if your pastures actually need to be fertilized is to do a soil test. By finding out what your soil needs you will be able choose a fertilizer with the right amount of nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium. Many fertilizers are high in nitrogen and that may not be what your grass plants need. Nitrogen promotes plant growth but in the spring most plants are going to grow vigorously on their own. Soil testing is relatively inexpensive and you can get a list of soil testing labs from your local conservation district or extension office, as well as advice on the best way to take a soil sample. If you do find that you need to fertilize, fertilizing in mid-spring and/or late fall should be plenty.

Apply a Green Band-Aid. Another thing you can do to encourage a thick, healthy stand of grass is to spread grass seed in areas that have bare spots or where grass isn’t growing as thick as you’d like. Remember: bare spots provide a haven for weeds in summer and mud in the winter! For most parts of North America a mix of seed containing Orchard grass, Perennial Rye grass, Timothy and Tall Fescue work best.

Keep pastures healthy by rotating grazing areas. By dividing a pasture area into smaller fields and rotating horses through them, you can encourage horses to graze more evenly, keep pasture grasses from becoming overgrazed and guarantee fresh grass for a longer period of time during the growing season.

Remember the golden rule of grazing: never allow grass to be grazed shorter than three inches. This ensures that the grass will have enough reserves left after grazing to permit rapid re-growth. Consider the bottom three inches of the grass plant is an energy collector that needs to be left for the plant. Once horses have grazed the majority of the grass in a pasture down to three or four inches, rotate them on to the next pasture. You can put horses back on pastures when the grass has re-grown to about six to eight inches.

Types of fencing for rotational grazing. When using a rotational grazing system, you can separate grazing paddocks with permanent or temporary (usually electric) fencing. It’s generally easiest to establish as many permanent grazing paddocks as you think you’ll need. You can always hook up temporary electric wire or tape if you need to subdivide further. However, if you want to keep fencing costs down you can also move temporary fencing with the horses as you switch them from one grazing area to another. As a first step towards a rotational grazing system, you may want to first try dividing an existing large pasture in half and alternate grazing between the two halves. After you’ve gained some experience with rotational grazing, try further subdividing. Portable electric fencing is lightweight, inexpensive, and easy to move for pasture rotation. High tensile electric fence or New Zealand-style fencing is also inexpensive and requires little maintenance.

Are some sections of your pasture still soggy while others are already dry?  Try fencing pastures according to how wet they are. That way, in the spring you can let horses onto the higher, dry areas first.  Save the wet areas until later in the spring or summer when they dry out.

Final details.  Make sure that pasture areas are large enough for horses to run in and those gates are placed so that horses can easily be led from stall to pasture and back. Remember to have a water source for each grazing area. You can have separate water sources for each grazing area or a single water source that is accessible from more than one area. Also try to divide pastures in such a way that horses can have access to shade or shelter especially if later in the summer they will be in these areas for more than a few hours.

Happy grazing!

Alayne

Hi Everyone, I hope you’re enjoying a good spring!

I want to let those of you who live in Puget Sound know that there’s been a change in circumstances as far as my Horses for Clean Water work there. As most of you know, Horses for Clean Water has been able to have a major educational impact in Puget Sound thanks to the King Conservation District and my many years of contract work for them.

Unfortunately for all of us, the King CD has lost their 2012 assessment revenues, their primary funding mechanism. This came about because of a successful legal challenge from a private property owner. This new dilemma means the KCD had to cancel their contract with me. It’s a very difficult situation for the KCD; their staff is their strongest resource and they are working hard to hang on to them.

For the immediate future, King CD staff are planning to continue with some of the educational events I had scheduled through July (which the KCD will run instead of me.) After that they will put the small farm education program on hold until 2013 when hopefully they’ll have full funding again and I can come back on board.

The KCD is currently in the process of assessing the extent of the impact associated with this situation; they are fortunate in having money in reserve that will allow their office to remain open and functioning for the time being. They hope to be able to tighten their belts for 2012 and work with their partners to ensure they return to full operational capacity in 2013.

Please feel free to contact the KCD staff or Board members with any comments or ideas you may over the coming months, and I’ll look forward to keeping in touch and bringing an exceptional KCD small farm educational program to you in 2013.

KCD Contact Info:

King Conservation District

www.kingcd.org

1107 SW Grady Way, Ste. 130

Renton WA  98057

Tel. 425-282-1900

Fax. 425-282-1898

~Alayne

Is all that recent rain or melting snow running towards your barn and horse paddocks? If so, let’s take a look at some ways to deal with surface water that travels towards your barn and confinement areas.

Environmentally speaking, the golden rule on horse properties is to “keep clean rainwater clean” by diverting it away from paddocks, buildings, manure piles and high traffic areas. When you do this you keep nutrients and sediments (from manure and mud) out of surface water as well as reduce mud on your property—good news for winter time chore efficiency!

First, check gutters and downspouts to make sure they are in good working order and are diverting water away from confinement areas, buildings and other high traffic spots. Make sure they aren’t plugged up with leaves and debris from recent windstorms.

Next, when tackling drainage think “slow the flow.” The best and easiest way to reduce surface water is to slow it down. Runoff from driveways, parking areas, hillsides or slopes can add significantly to the problem of managing mud in confinement areas. That might mean that all you need is a load of gravel spread on a driveway or parking are to “slow the flow.”  Many times just slowing water down will allow it to soak back into the ground–perhaps that’s all that will be needed to solve a drainage issue. This also helps recharge the natural hydrology of your property including ground water.

If surface water is running into your paddocks and high-traffic areas, here are some options to consider for dealing with those flows:

• French drain lines
• Water diversion bars (like a speed bump for water runoff)
• Swales (gently sloping depressions or grass-lined waterways)
• Culverts
• Ditches
• Dry wells (a large hole in the ground filled with rock. Water drains in, filling in the spaces between the rocks).
• Native trees and shrubs. A mature Douglas fir tree can drink up to 250 gallons of water per day. Also plant water-loving shrubs like willow and dogwood to intercept flows or soak up excesses.

Divert the clean surface water away from your high traffic areas to someplace else on your property such as unused corner of your pasture, well-vegetated woods, a grassy ditch, or other well-vegetated area. Downspout water can be used for a dry well, rain barrel, stock watering tank—or a rain garden!

Do not divert to an existing water body as the large amounts of water can drastically and unnaturally change natural water levels. When water levels go up quickly or flows increase turbidity important fish and aquatic habitat can be ruined or destroyed.

Each of these techniques is useful for keeping clean rainwater out of your horse areas and thereby reducing mud and keeping your place chore-efficient and your horses healthier and happier, too.

WANT MORE HELP? Join Alayne and the King Conservation District on 2/23 at the Black Diamond Library for Mud Management: Record Rainfall/Record Mud, from 6:15 pm to 8:45 pm. If this winter turned your horse place into a mud pit come learn about changes you can make to help your place be healthier for your horses and more chore efficient for you. FREE!  Register and receive directions at 425-282-1949 or signup@kingcd.org.

Alayne

We’ve been lucky so far; most of the Pacific Northwest has survived the first part of winter without much in the way of storms. I think we all know that winter’s big push is upon us now with predictions of snow, rain, flooding and wind ahead. Use this on-farm emergency preparedness list to help you stay on top of things–plus many of these tips will help you get your horse property more chore efficient and easier to manage in general.

• Review your lighting needs. Since most storms occur in the dark winter months consider whether you have adequate outdoor lighting. Are stalls bright enough to care for your horses during frigid and dark winter evenings? When you’re feeding at night will you have enough light to see if the hay you’re feeding is green—or damp and moldy? Would you be better able to do manure pick-up chores in paddocks if you have outdoor lighting? Perhaps solar lighting along walkways or drives would make nighttime paths safer.

• Consider your own equipment needs. Do you have a flashlight for the house and barn hanging in easily accessed locations? Are extra batteries on hand? How about fuel for generators, cook stoves, and lanterns? Battery-powered headlamps that free up your hands are excellent equipment to have on hand if the power goes out. These can be purchased at camping supply stores or home improvement centers. A battery-powered or hand-crank radio as well as a weather radio is very useful during storms and power outages. Finally, having a cell phone charger on hand that runs off your car is extremely important. When power outages and phone service goes out we all depend on cell phones. A cell phone with a dead battery is no help at all.
  

  If you live in a flood prone area, such as a flood plain or near a creek, river or wetlands, now is the time to review high water locations on your property. (Photo by Alayne Bickle)

• Set up a water supply that won’t freeze or get icy cold during winter blizzard events. A horse drinks 8 to 12 gallons of water per day, preferring water temperatures of about 45-65 degrees. Horses tend to drink less when water is cold and it is critical to understand that a horse cannot get enough moisture by eating snow. Inadequate water consumption can lead to colic so make an effort to ensure your horses are drinking enough. On very cold days either break the ice twice daily or consider getting a stock tank heater or heated stall buckets. A low-cost option is to warm water buckets with hot water from a teakettle.
• Develop a back-up plan for watering your horses before you lose power to your private well. Water can be stored in rain barrels or garbage cans (stored in an area where it won’t freeze.) Emergency officials generally recommend having a 3-day supply of water on hand, which is a minimum of 30 gallons of water per horse. Access to an unfrozen creek or lake may work as your back-up watering source but train your horses to drink from these areas beforehand.
• Check your water-proof horse blankets for rips or other needed mending or washing so they are ready for use when you need them.
• Consider your own clothing needs. This is a fundamental, yet often overlooked point. How often do we see people changing a flat tire or running from a storm in a sweatshirt or other unsuitable gear? If you are going to be working with horses in inclement weather for an undetermined amount of time, you need suitable gear. Do you own a good, waterproof jacket?  Knee-high mud boots that don’t leak? Insulated, waterproof gloves? A down coat or vest? Invest in some high-tech cold or rainy weather gear and consider layering; a warm vest with a barn coat and a waterproof shell along with proper gloves and outdoor work boots are a good combo. You are no good to your horses if, while caring for them, you become hypothermic and a medical emergency yourself.
• Flood proof your property. If you live in a flood prone area, such as a flood plain or near a creek, river or wetlands, now it the time to review high water locations on your property. If it is difficult to visualize this, get help from your county or your local conservation district (Google “conservation district” and your county’s name for the nearest office.) Acquaint yourself with the historic high water locations recorded for your property. If you are new to your location talk with city or county offices to determine your flood risk, as well as resources. If you live in an extremely flood prone area, it may be wise to consider building a “critter pad.” A critter pad is a large mound or small hill built above the flood level. When flooding occurs, pastured animals can be moved onto the pads to keep the animals out of water. Critter pads usually require special permitting and must be specifically engineered using approved fill material to ensure they stand up to high traffic use, heavy rains and high water volumes – and remain above flood levels. Plus, they need to have a negligible impact on the environment. In some cases there may be funding or technical assistance available to help with the development of a critter pad. If interested contact your local Natural Resources Conservation Service (NRCS) office or Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) office for more assistance.

Check out more good resource tips and ideas on winter preparedness here. http://takewinterbystorm.org/

Here’s hoping you and your furry friends stay safe, dry and warm!

Alayne

January. The month of reflection. A time to think back on what’s been accomplished and a time for looking ahead to new dreams and goals. Always so many things and experiences to be thankful for.

Matt and I have been enjoying setting up our new environmentally sensitive guest ranch and horse motel, Sweet Pepper Ranch, in Nampa, ID. Around the ranch some of the green projects we’re working on include installing an owl box (more on that in another post) and kestrel boxes for rodent control. We’ve also installed sand paddocks in each of the 10 stalls—easy to clean and the horses love them. Horse-wise we are starting to build trail course obstacles and we’re making plans to build a new, large turnout area with run-in sheds.  We look forward to providing ranch tours and sunny hospitality to all our future guests!

This year at Horses for Clean Water we have lots of fun education in store including some new and innovative classes like the workshop we’ll be offering with the King Conservation District on Saturday, February 26 in Issaquah, WA, 9 a.m. to noon.

Track paddocks, trail courses, slow feeders and other innovations for confinement area horse keeping. Do you hate keeping your horses tucked away in confinement areas all winter? Want to hear about some new ideas for managing confinement areas for horses? So that you can keep them healthy, mud-free and mentally stimulated? Then join us in this workshop to hear a variety of speakers who will give you ideas on ways to design a trail course, different set-ups for track paddocks and how to use slow-feeders. Keep your winter paddocks interesting for your horses—and chore efficient for you!  Register and receive directions for all King Conservation District educational events at 425-282-1949 or signup@kingcd.org.

I am also looking way ahead towards the end of year for an event that has been in the works for several years. This November I will be the keynote speaker at a two-day Australian Horse Keeping Conference HorseLandWater.  As part of that, we will be doing sort of an “exchange” with an Australian horsewoman who is my Down Under counterpart, Jane Meyers, author and environmental educator. She will be traveling throughout the United States this spring reviewing the latest and greatest in environmentally sensitive horse keeping. Don’t be surprised if this May you hear some Aussie talk at KCD farm tours or at a Cowgirl Weekend Getaway here at Sweet Pepper Ranch!

In the meantime, I will be taking even more photos than ever to gear up for my presentations in the Land Down Under. I plan to shows case all of you and your good work!  So speaking of Aussie talk, I am practicing up for my first few days of relaxing once Matt and I get to Melbourne. How does this sound? This Sheila is looking forward to putting on her sunnies, checking out the tucker and giving it all a burl. Just hope I don’t end up beyond the Black Stump. Too right, eh?!

No worries and Happy New Year,

~Alayne

Be sure to check out The art of composting in the latest issue of Equus and find out that it’s simpler than you might think to turn manure into “black gold.”

American Horse Publications Awards Excellence in Equine Publishing Media

The Electronic Media division recognizes the variety of digital media published online by members in 2010.

TheHorse.com earned a second and honorable mention for their blogs on “Smart Horse Keeping” and “Horse Sense (and Sensibility).” Placing second with their video series, “Day in the Life: Tim Tetrick” was USTrotting.com. HorseLink Magazine won the Digital Publication class.

The Horse: Your Guide To Equine Health Care magazine for May 2011 includes articles on placentitis, repairing fractures, conditioning through the seasons (part 1), etc. This is a Green Horse Keeping Special Issue, including in-depth articles on environmentally friendly pasture updates, green pest control, organic feed, and more!

Buy it here:

The Horse – May 2011

We are happy to announce that the Classified Ads section has returned. You will need to be a registered user in order to post your advertisement. For now, ads are free, but a fee may be imposed at a later date. Enjoy!

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